What are the benefits of products containing vitamin C when applied topically to the skin and why should we add this ingredient to our routine? Why are products containing vitamin C preferred especially in summer routines?

C vitamin; It is one of the most powerful antioxidants known for skin health; It captures and renders harmless free radicals, especially those caused by UV rays from the sun, smoking and environmental factors, which damage skin cells. Serums containing vitamin C increase collagen and elastin synthesis, so with regular use; Wrinkles on the skin decrease, pores tighten, the skin looks brighter and healthier. Due to its anti-inflammatory effect, it reduces both acne and acne-related redness. Since it balances the melanocyte cells responsible for blemish formation and suppresses blemishes, it is also our preferred choice to equalize skin tone and brighten the skin after summer.

What are the tips we should pay attention to when buying vitamin C serum?

Vitamin C is an active ingredient that oxidizes or deteriorates very quickly due to light, moisture and heat, so the serum to be purchased must have the correct storage conditions; To avoid being affected by light, products with a pump or application head that will minimize contact with air and in opaque or dark colored bottles should be preferred. In addition, the active vitamin C content in the serum, its density ratio, other active ingredients used and the pH of the product are the most important factors that determine the benefit it will provide to the skin. Serums containing L-ascorbic acid as the active ingredient, with a pH of 3.5 – 4 and a concentration between 10% and 20% should be preferred. Stabilizing the active form of vitamin C and ensuring that it does not oxidize is really difficult and requires separate R&D work, so it would be a wrong choice to buy a product just by looking at the high concentration on the label.

When should we choose to use vitamin C in our routine – morning or evening? What are the tips we should pay attention to before or after application?

Including vitamin C in the morning skin care routine allows us to get more efficiency because it protects the skin from harmful environmental factors like a shield throughout the day and increases the effect of our sunscreen. After washing the face in the morning, you can apply it to the skin by massaging it and wait for it to be absorbed, then use a moisturizer on top. We must complete the morning skin care routine by applying sunscreen last after the application, because vitamin C alone is never enough to protect us from the harmful rays of the sun; When we use vitamin C without using sunscreen, our skin may become sensitive.

If the skin tolerates it, I may have patients add it to their skin care routine both in the morning and evening during the winter months, but not every skin type allows this and it is necessary to proceed step by step.

What is the most effective vitamin C derivative? What is the difference between this derivative and others?

The most effective form is L ascorbic acid. This active ingredient is the purest derivative with the highest antioxidant power. Thanks to its structure that is absorbed by the skin at the highest level, we can transfer all the benefits of vitamin C to the layer we want. Otherwise, impure and inadequately absorbed forms do not have a positive effect on the skin, but can only irritate the skin and cause problems such as redness.

How often should we use vitamin C? (Every day, 2-3 times a week?)

My advice to those who start using it for the first time is to use it every other day, so that the skin gradually gets used to it and we are protected from unwanted side effects such as redness and irritation. After this 2-week adaptation period, if the skin tolerates it, using it every day will allow us to get more efficiency from the serum, but the skin structure is very important in this regard, and if the skin is very sensitive and thin, using it 2-3 times a week can be a much more applicable routine.

What is the ideal starting rate for vitamin C? What kind of side effects does choosing a high-rate formulation cause for a beginner?

It is more appropriate to start with a product containing 10% pure vitamin C and increase the concentration over time according to the skin’s response. Choosing a product between 10% and 20% according to skin structure for optimum benefit and minimum side effects will lead to more successful results. Concentrations above 20% are very irritating to the skin in the long term, and studies have shown that there is no difference in terms of effectiveness. If you have chosen a high-level formulation for your skin, your skin will become red, itchy, dry, burning and sensitive due to the acid effect. In such cases, after the skin sensitivity disappears, I recommend that the product be mixed half and half with a suitable moisturizer each time, reducing the concentration and giving it another chance to my patient. We benefit from the product and do not tire the skin. However, if symptoms such as redness, itching and burning continue, you should no longer use that product.

With which ingredients does the effect of vitamin C increase? Why does it work well with vitamin E?

Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) is a fat-soluble antioxidant; Vitamin C is water soluble; When used together, the cell’s self-protection capacity increases exponentially because they show their power in different aspects, as well as vitamin E; It prevents vitamin C from oxidizing and getting damaged. Research has shown that antioxidant effects increase approximately 4 times when used together.

Ferulic acid; It is a plant-based antioxidant, especially it adjusts the pH balance and contributes to the stabilization of vitamin C, and when used together, they are more successful in reducing aging problems caused by sun damage.

If it will be used for blemish problem or skin equalization and brightening purposes; Vitamin C serums containing active ingredients with more pigment suppressing properties, such as phloretin or glutathione, will be much more effective.

What can we do and what can we pay attention to in order to get maximum efficiency from the vitamin C care product we use?

By creating a skin care routine that includes few and essential products, we actually prevent the interaction of vitamin C with other products and get maximum efficiency; We can organize this routine as cleansing, using vitamin C serum, moisturizing and sun protection. It is necessary to consider vitamin C as a part of your daily morning routine and use it without breaking the routine.

Finishing the product within a maximum of 3 months after opening it allows us to get maximum efficiency without oxidation. Serum containing vitamin C should be applied to both the face and neck with a light massage and should be stored in a moisture-free, dark cabinet at room temperature.

Which active ingredients should we avoid using simultaneously?

Using vitamin C serum and retinoic acid creams (vitamin A) at the same time makes the skin very sensitive, so they should not be used at the same time.

Creams containing niacinamide When used together with vitamin C, niacinamide; It reduces the effect of vitamin C and increases skin irritation and redness.

Products containing benzoyl peroxide that we use in acne treatment should not be used together as they oxidize vitamin C.

Vitamin C is actually an acid derivative, so it should never be used simultaneously with acids containing AHA/BHA (such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid) that exfoliate the skin, otherwise the skin barrier will be disrupted and left defenseless.

How can we prevent the vitamin C we buy from oxidizing? Does its effect decrease when oxidized?

After using our serum, storing it in room air, in a closet free of moisture (except the bathroom) and away from light will allow us to use it for a much longer time.

I do not recommend storing it in the refrigerator because it may crystallize and its contents may solidify.

The color of vitamin C serums is normally slightly transparent or very light yellow. If it turns orange or brown, this means that it has oxidized and has lost its effect. Using it in this state may cause staining on the skin and darkening of the skin tone.

What changes does using vitamin C cause in the long and short term on the skin?

In the short term, the effect of lightening and brightening on the skin is noticeable. With use for more than 3 months, wrinkles decrease on the skin with the increase in collagen and elastin, pores tighten, spots disappear, the skin looks smoother. Recent scientific studies, especially on skin cancer and vitamin C serums, show that; Vitamin C serums are very promising products in protecting against skin cancer, and there are new developments in this regard every day.

Can products containing vitamin C be used in all 4 seasons?

Vitamin C is also known as the timeless vitamin, that is, it can be used in all seasons and all age groups, but it should be noted that there is a different concentration and content of vitamin C suitable for each skin. For example, if your skin is prone to oiliness and causes acne, I would never recommend the forms with vitamin E because it will cause more acne. It may cause acne or if your skin is very sensitive and you have rosacea, high contents will increase sensitivity. Vitamin C can be used without a break in summer, but in this period I prefer a lower concentration than in winter and I recommend reapplying sunscreen every 2 hours.

Are there any skin conditions where it is beneficial to stay away from this ingredient? Can those who are treated for acne or have procedures such as laser or needle epilation on their face use vitamin C?

The oral medications or therapeutic creams we give to patients with very intense acne can dry and sensitize the skin. I do not recommend high-concentration vitamin C serums during this intensive treatment period, but if the acne is mild, I gradually add it to the routine because it both reduces the redness that occurs after acne and is also beneficial for scars.

My recommendations for laser treatments will vary depending on the condition of the skin, the reason for the laser treatment and which laser is used; If a peeling laser has been applied, I recommend taking a break for at least a week, but in some publications it has been found that vitamin C serums applied after low-energy laser contribute to wound healing and better results are obtained. Therefore, it is much more appropriate to decide on this issue together with the laser performing physician and according to the condition of the skin. It will happen. It can be used after needle epilation or hair laser, but if your skin is red after laser, my suggestion would be to start after this period has passed.

Does taking vitamin C orally have a similar effect as topical application?

Our skin is our largest organ, but we must consider health as a whole. A healthy diet and exercise have an unquestionably positive contribution to a healthy skin. If vitamin C is not taken enough in the diet, wounds heal slowly, the skin becomes more fragile and prone to bruising quickly, bleeding in the gums may occur. For this reason, it is necessary to consume fruits and vegetables that are sources of vitamin C at every meal. In cases of increased need, we can use oral forms of vitamin C, but there are benefits for the skin. It is not as effective as topical application because a certain amount of oral forms only reaches the skin and cannot reach sufficient concentration, but establishing the balance is very important for the skin, as in all areas of life. A skin that glows with health, both from within; It consists of nutrition and necessary supplements, timely medical applications suitable for the skin, and a regular skin care routine made by knowing the skin.